Why Construction Takes So Long

Or, a step-by-step lesson in setting lookout rafters.

Today I was noticing the tedium involved in the particular job on which I was working, and I thought it would be interesting to share it in detail. Usually, the small details are not given attention as I tell the building tale. I don't mind the slow tasks at all; in fact, I rather enjoy doing work meticulously (that's why I quilt). It just takes a long time is all.

I'll assume all my readers know what rafters are to begin. Lookout (aka outrigger) rafters lay perpendicular to the rafter on the edge of the building. Their purpose is to hold up the rafter in the gable end that over hangs the edge of the wall. Additionally, they support the roof sheeting and shingles. You can see the first of my lookout rafters here, hanging over the last rafter.


Step 1: get up early to take advantage of the fine weather and daylight.

I usually skip this first step because skipping steps would save time, right? Riiiight... If I had a picture of me sleeping in the afternoon, I'd put it here. I seem to never think to take pictures while I'm sleeping...

Step 2: measure, layout, and cut the lookout rafters.

I don't know how often you're supposed to place these things, but I decided to go every two lineal feet along the rafters. That is way more than the book suggests, but I want to be able to use them as ladders while I work, and want plenty of support for the roof overhang. Anyway, that comes out to eight lookouts on each corner rafter for a total of 32. So I moved boards to the saw, marked and cut them, then moved them all up to the loft, shown in this picture.

Step 3: measure and mark location for lookout rafter

This step is often done while standing on a ladder, or when I'm working on the end with no loft, while standing on top of the 5 1/2 inch wide wall, or a window frame, or the lookout rafters below.


Step 4: Layout the notch in the gable end rafter to position the lookout rafter correctly.

Step 5: Cut the notch where the lookout rafter will lay.

It should be noted here that cutting these notches takes a lot of time, and is not necessary, depending on the construction method used. It is necessary however, that the lookout rafter be flush (level, coplanar) with the rest of the main rafters. The alternative to cutting notches is to set the gable end rafters lower than the main rafters to accommodate the thickness of the lookout rafters. I opted to do the notching because I thought it would be simpler than doing the Pythagorean and other calculations. At the time I made the decision, I didn't know I was going to end up with 32 notches to cut so I'm not sure which way is better. I like this way, because I know what I'm doing.

Once the outside cuts at the edge of the notch are made, then I run the skill saw across the notch area several times with the blade set to the correct depth of 1.5 inches.

Step 6: Chisel out the chunks of wood to create the notch.

You may be wondering if there is an easier way to do this task. The answer is maybe, but I haven't heard of it yet. I learned this cut and chisel trick years ago and my book suggests it as well. It's very slow, but equally effective.





Step 7: Set lookout rafter in place.

Step 8: Square Lookout rafter to main rafter to position correctly.


Step 9: Nail lookout rafter to main rafter.

This step gets a little tricky when I'm working high up because I have to hold the lookout rafter in the correct position with one hand, lift a heavy nail gun with the other, press the tip of the nail gun in the right place to release the safety, then pull the trigger, all without shooting myself, losing my balance, or moving the lookout rafter. Sometimes it takes a few tries. I haven't shot myself or lost my balance yet, but I purchased a full body harness and started using it today because I imagine the first time I shoot myself, I'll lose my balance. The second time probably won't be so surprising...

Step 10: Nail the lookout rafter to the gable end rafter.

This step is a little easier than the previous because the board is secure and the nail gun is pointing downward so the weight of it rests on the board.

Step 11: repeat steps 2 through 10 thirty-one times and call it a day's work! Or two days, or three...
Things are looking up! :-)